Inspirations

SEWING TUTORIAL:

“Kids overalls with appliqué“

Pattern

Printable version

MATERIAL

Denim sewing machine needle 90
Denim fabric: 100 cm x 140 cm (1 5/8 yds. of 40) in wide
Lightweight denim or cotton for 3 pockets and 2 bibs lining: 30 cm (1/3 yd)
Sewing thread in coordinating denim color
Thread for topstitching and buttonholes. We used Gütermann sewing thread for denim in a gold color
6 jeans-style buttons

Appliqué (optional element)

Lightweight fusible interfacing: 20 cm x 90 cm (8 in of 36) in wide
Lightweight cotton fabric for the appliqué
Paper-backed fusible web for the appliqué, 10 cm (5 in X 10) in.
Sewing thread in coordinating color for the appliqué

MACHINES AND ACCESSORIES

Sewing machine. In this tutorial, we used the elna eXplore 340S.
Standard foot A
Automatic buttonhole foot R*
Satin foot F*, or optional satin stitch open-toe foot F2 (Ref. 200-137-025)

* Included as standard accessory

Size

3 / 4 years

HOW TO MAKE IT

OVERALLS

Fold the denim fabric in half, right sides together, selvages aligned.
Lay out your pattern, reserving space for the front pocket.
Add 1.5 cm (5/8) in seam allowance to all pattern pieces. Cut correct number of all pattern pieces.

FRONT POCKETS

Cut a piece of fabric 20 x 20 cm (8 in x 8 in), lay out the front pocket pattern in the center of the fabric.
Trace or baste the outline of the pattern.
If you wish to make the butterfly appliqué, draw its body in the center of the pocket.

THE APPLIQUÉ TECHNIQUE

Choose a fabric for the appliqué. Cotton or print jersey fabrics are good options.
Cut a piece of 12 x 12 cm. Apply fusible web to wrong side of applique fabric.
On the paper side of the web, trace and cut applique pieces. *. Remove paper backing.
Remove paper backing and position applique(s) to right side of front pocket.

* Appliqué shape (download the shape here – PDF file)

THE APPLIQUÉ TECHNIQUE

Install a jeans needle size 90 on your sewing machine.
Use denim thread and straight stitch to fill the inside of the butterfly body.

Select the appliqué stitch or Zigzag stitch to sew your appliqué.
Use the satin transparent foot F or the optional optional satin stitch open-toe foot F2 (Ref. 200-137-025). With its greater opening at the front. This will give you very good visibility.

FRONT POCKET

Cut your pocket adding a 1 cm (1/2) in seam on the sides and the point. Trim 3 cm (1 ½) in from the straight edge for the inside lining.
Sew the pocket to the lining, leaving few cm in for the opening to be able to turn it right side out.

Fold right sides together, over the flap line and sew the sides and point of the pocket, turn right side out and sew the opening closed with a hand stitch. Repeat for the back pockets. Press the pockets flat.
If you do not wish to line the pockets, overlock all around using the zigzag stitch and then fold the seam allowances inside. Iron the pockets.

Using the gold denim thread, topstitch over the pockets.
•Select the straight seam, stitch length 4 mm.

Fold the straps in half, lengthwise, right sides together, sew and turn right side out.
Topstitch on each side with the gold denim thread.

Cut a 4 cm (1 .¾) in strip of the interfacing and fuse it to the wrong side of the top and sides of the front bib.

On the right side of the bib, place the pocket on placement marks and sew a double topstitch with the denim thread.

Place the back pockets over the placement marks and use the denim thread to sew a double topstitch.

OVERALLS

Once the front facing opening of the overalls has been fused, stitch along the lighweight fusible interfacing, stopping when you’ve reached its end with a backstitch (green line).
Clip along the red line.

Turn the facing right side out and topstitch along the facing outline for a mock fly front.

Mark the location of the buttonholes, place the button in the back of the automatic buttonhole foot R. Then install the foot on your machine.
Sew the buttonholes using the denim thread.
In order to find the ideal setting, make a test on your fabric by selecting a stitch width and density (length).
Use the same setting for the remaining buttonholes.

Sew the pants side seams together and overlock with the zigzag stitch.

Press the seams open.

With right sides facing, slide one trouser leg into the other leg, sew and overlock the seam between the legs.

Sew the front and back bibs to the front and back pants.
Press the seam allowances towards the bib.
Topstitch all around the edge with sewing thread.

With right sides together, fold the buttonhole flaps in half, lengthwise and sew the short top edge. Clip the corner and turn the flap right side out.
Clean finish the bottom of the flap with a zigzag stitch.
Note: If your fabric is lightweight, interface the flaps.

Sew the flap to the pants/bib sides, remembering to leave a seam allowance at the top of the bib.

Place the straps on the back bib markings. Baste with a straight seam.

Place the back and front bib linings, right sides together.
Sew seams and notch at the curves.

Turn right side out and fold the bottom seams allowances to the inside. Sew a basting stitch all the way around.
Iron and hold the bottom seam and the small side flaps with a hand stitch.

Using the denim thread, topstitch twice around the bibs.

Secure the buttonhole flap with a small satin stitch sewed diagonally.
Test for the appropriate setting.
In this example it’s sewn 2.5 cm in width and 0.6 cm in length.
You will need to adapt the measurements according to the thickness of your thread and fabric.

Sew the buttonholes on the top and sides of the front bib using the same setting as the first buttonholes.
To open them safely, place a pin at the opposite end creating a stopping gate.

Double fold and topstitch the bottom hem with the denim thread.

Position the buttons in place.
To attach the buttons, place them in the desired position and fasten them by tightening them firmly with snap button pliers until you hear a “click”.
Iron the overalls.

Congratulations, it’s ready!

Thinking about making the matching t-shirt ?

The tutorials are available online in the Inspiration section of our website.

Copyright

The authorization to use this documentation is hereby granted exclusively for non-commercial use. The contents of this documentation are the sole property of Elna International Corp. SA. This documentation shall not in any way constitute a right to transfer any rights with respect to copyrights of Elna International Corp. SA to the user or to third parties.